Landolt-Brnstein Group V
: Geophysics
Volume 3 

Oceanography 

Subvolume C 
Title Page, Contributors, Preface 
6 
Ocean waves 1

6.1 
Classification and basic features (L. MAGAARD, L.A. MYSAK) 1

6.2 
Wind waves and swell (W. ROSENTHAL) 17

6.2.0 
List of symbols 17

6.2.1 
Introduction 18

6.2.2 
The deterministic description of a linear plane wave, its energy and momentum density 18

6.2.3 
The energy density spectrum 19

6.2.4 
Surface waves in deep water 21

6.2.5 
Surface waves in shallow water 32

6.2.6 
References for 6.2 36

6.3 
Internal gravity waves (D. OLBERS) 37

6.3.0 
List of symbols and indices 37

6.3.1 
Introduction 38

6.3.2 
Observational techniques 39

6.3.3 
Space-time scales 43

6.3.4 
Equations of motion 48

6.3.5 
Kinematics of linear small-scale waves 59

6.3.6 
Spectral models 66

6.3.7 
Spectral dynamics 71

6.3.8 
References for 6.3 80

6.4 
Astronomical tides (W. ZAHEL) 83

6.4.0 
List of symbols 83

6.4.1 
The tide-generating potential 86

6.4.2 
The tidal dynamical equations 89

6.4.3 
Time dependence of the tidal field of motion 91

6.4.4 
Open ocean tides 103

6.4.5 
Co-oscillating tides 116

6.4.6 
Vertical distribution of tidal currents 127

6.4.7 
References for 6.4 132

7 
Upwelling regions (E. MITTELSTEADT) 135

7.1 
Introduction 135

7.2 
Open ocean upwelling zones 135

7.3 
Coastal upwelling 140

7.4 
References for 7 163

8 
Ice in the ocean (G. KOSLOWSKI) 167

8.0 
List of symbols 167

8.1 
Structure of sea ice 168

8.2 
Salinity of sea ice 170

8.3 
Thermophysical properties of sea ice 172

8.4 
Elastic properties and deformation of sea ice 174

8.5 
Strength of sea ice 176

8.6 
Ice cover characteristics of the world ocean 183

8.7 
References for 8 189

9 
Coastal oceanography (H.G. GIERLOFF-EMDEN) 191

9.1 
Definitions and spatial extensions 191

9.2 
Classification of coasts 212

9.3 
The high-energy environment of the coastal zone 218

9.4 
The shore as the interaction zone of sea and land 221

9.5 
Wave effects on coasts 244

9.6 
Tide effects on coasts 263

9.7 
Estuaries and lagoons as coastal water bodies 284

9.8 
Coastal lagoons 294

9.9 
River discharge affecting coastal waters 305

9.10 
Chemical and biological effects on the coastal zone 314

9.11 
Climatologic-meteorologic effects on coasts. Oceanic-atmospheric coupled systems 319

9.12 
Sea level change and the coastal zone 325

9.13 
References for 9 336


